LIGHT EXPANDED CLAY AGGREGATE
Benefits Of Using COCO FIBRE
TIps On How to Make COCO FIBRE Work Best for You
Working With COCO FIBRE Summary
PERLITE AND VERMICULITE
SOILESS POTTING MIXES
ORGANIC SOIL MIXES
MEDIUMS AND THEIR FLUSHING REQUIREMENTS
ADJUSTING THE PH AND/OR PPMS
3 PRINCIPAL REASON TO RUN "DRAIN
ABILITY TO RUN DRENCHES
Today there are a number of great, environmentally friendly growing media on the market. Many of them can be re-used with microbe colonis alive and thriving within them. Others can be sterilized and reused, and others still can be disposed of by digging them into your yard to amend the soil.
Growing media is used in net cups or plastic pots to provide support for plant roots. It protects roots from sunlight while giving them something to hold on to. Growing media helps to ensure that plants get the proper ratio of water and oxygen, both which are critical to healthy plant growth. You can use many different types of media, but all should provide the following: physical support for the plant, free passage of moisture (nutrient solution) to the root zone, proper drainage of moisture and adequate air circulation at the root zone.
I HAVE TO USE A GROWING MEDIUM?There ARE two types of systems which require very little growing media, NFT and Aeroponics. Both of these usually rely on a very small amount of media in which to root a very young plant, and the rest of the roots are allowed to grow in the enclosed growing chamber of the system. In these types of systems, watering and feeding of plants depend solely upon the flow of nutrient solution past the plants' roots. If water flow is interrupted, even for a short duration, plants quickly die. At the other extreme, if the root zone is continually flooded, roots suffocate of oxygen deprivation and plants quickly die. A good grow medium negotiates these extremes.
Using a growing medium is not entirely necessary in hydroponics, but utilizing a grow medium maintains a reserve of nutrient solution in the root zone along with a percentage of air pore space. This can act as a buffer and save crops from failure. The growing systems which rely on grow media are Drip Systems and Ebb &
Flow Systems. These systems are
most frequently used by hobby
and beginning growers as they
are more forgiving and provide
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What is the best growing medium?
Different media work better for different growing systems and different plant types. There are many factors to consider such as water and nutrient retention capabilities, what kind of growing system you will be using, and whether or not you wish to reuse the media for subsequent harvests.
Rockwool is always a good choice. A fiber spun from rock, it holds a tremendous amount of water and offers a buffer against drying out in case of electrical outages or pump failures. Between ninety and ninety-five percent of the space between rockwool's fiber is filled with air. Once saturated with water, Rockwool still has between 25-30% air within its medium. This air space makes oxygen, water and nutrient solution easily accessible to plant roots.Another type of medium, we love is Coco (coir fibres, or husks). As well as Rockwool, Coco also holds about 30% air within it. Coco is Organic and is 100% biodegradable. Trichoderma, a beneficial fungi is naturally present within its core, which protects and helps nourish the root zone of most plants. Coco also has naturally occuring enzymes which are soothing for a plants root zone as well.
Grow Rocks are another type of media which provides great aeration. Grow Rocks hold very little water and nutrient. Consequently, this medium will act only as a support system for plant roots, and provides very little water reserves. This is a great way to go if you're using an automated container garden on a watering timer. Grow Rocks also work well in the net cups used in any type of tray system (i.e. Aeroponic/ NFT). They can be reused over and over again for many, many crops. In well maintained garden, they would be sterilized between every crop. One downside to grow rocks is that they are heavy.
Soil is seeing a resurgence as of late. Not that it ever went anywhere, but with the recent popularization of beneficial micro-organisms and the introduction of coco coir fibre into the mix, many growers are returning to - or just starting up in soil rather than “Hydroponics”. New Soil Mixes use custom blends of organic materials to add aeration, biology, and plant ready minerals into the mix. The everlasting debate between Hydro and Soil and which is the better medium is sill on and kicking. These days many people are reporting larger / better Yields with soil though. Come ask us more about this!
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Rockwool is made of basalt rocks and chalk which are heated up to 1600°C, to create lava. The lava is blown into a spinning chamber, which makes fibers similar to cotton candy. The fibers are packed into mats, from which cubes, blocks and slabs are cut. Rockwool is almost all based on recycled materials, often slag from primary preconsumer ferrous or nonferrous metals producers. One cubic yard of otherwise wasted rock becomes 37 cubic yards of rockwool. Seeds or clones may be started in small rockwool cubes which can then be transplanted to larger cubes which can then be used on top of slabs. The cubes may also be transplanted with other mediums such as grow rocks. Totally biodegradable, it may be plowed into your garden - it will break up into chunks and add aeration to the soil. Grodan Brand is our rockwool selection of choice. It is always been clean, sterile and consistent.
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LECA, Light Expanded Clay Aggregate or Grow Rocks
Grow rocks, are one of the only kinds of growing medium that can be used again and again with a minimum of breakdown. They are a good choice for the grower who plans on many harvests in the future. The brand we sell, Hydroton, is known worldwide for its superior quality. Expanded clay provides excellent aeration as the odd shapes of the rocks allow for the formation of air pockets throughout the root zone. The inside of the pebbles are filled with air pockets as well and they are fairly light weight. The pebbles do not hold much water, so plants must be watered frequently to prevent roots from drying out. They are often used in Ebb and Flow systems.
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Cubes are small rooting cubes
that are similar to floral foam
- the material flower designers
use to hold floral arrangements
in place. Completely pH neutral, Oasis cubes need simply be saturated
with water (they hold 40 times
their weight) and they are ready
for use. They are xcellent for
use in all types of propagation,including
seeds and cuttings /clones.They
have holes pre-punched in them.
They come in sheets that fit in
a standard black nursery tray
uniform cell structure of Oasis
cubes assures proper drainage
and water holding capacity for
optimum air/water balance for
your seedlings or clones.. The
modest cation exchange capability
of the cubes helps control availability
of grower applied fertilizer.
cubes are often used as an alternative
to rockwool starting cubes. They
do have one negative problem.
They are not compostable, they
are not reusable and are just
thrown in the trash at the end
of the harvest.
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Benefits of using COCO FIBRE
Coco coir (coir fibre, Coir, Coco, Coco fibre) is a product derived from the husks of coconuts. Visually it looks a lot like peat. Coco, when used properly, represents the best of soil and hydro in a single media. Coco can be extremely forgiving, and growth tends to be very consistant. Coco is pretty damn tolerant of over-and-under-watering. As you will see below Coco has many amazing properties (and some minor obstacles) making it an ideal medium to grow plants in.
Coco is almost a neutral medium, which means that aside from its limited ability to adjust pH to optimum levels, it does
not bind nutrients and feed them slowly to the plant over time like traditional “soils” do. (This means that Coco has a relatively low cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to most “soils”. All the nutrients your plant needs to grow must be
provided by you. Coco fiber does, however, create millions of tiny air spaces, which are great for the roots. This is due to
the large surface area of the coir particles. Think of coco as a very porous, open cell sponge; it releases water very quickly
and as it drains out of the bottom of the containers, it pulls in fresh nutrients and oxygen. The medium holds water, oxygen,
and nutrients in a perfect ratio for the roots in these tiny spaces. As oxygen plays an all-important role in respiration
(roots pumping nutrient up to the plant), the structure of coco coir further promotes root and plant health. This factor
should not be underestimated because healthy roots invariably lead to a healthy plant (and a healthy yield).
Coco also has a remarkable capacity to insulate and protect the plant’s root system in hot weather. This means that coco
coir isn’t as prone to overheating, due to excessive ambient air temperatures, as many other mediums, making it ideal for
warm climates. Because the root zone is cooler, there is more oxygen availble for the roots to use.
On a less positive note, coir can also contain high levels of sodium (salt). If you’re growing in coir be aware that this can be a potential problem. We suggest you only use High - Grade Coco Mediums like Canna Coco. Canna is unique in their all natural “chemical” based Flush which brings the overall ppms / EC levels contained within the medium down to next to nothing. Canna Coco also has a great consistency of long to short fibres, and is pre-innoculated with their proprietary Trichoderma strain of beneficial Fungi to help ward off pathogens and help with the initial transplanting process.
Finally, Coir has two other very important benefits that make it excellent for plant growth. It has naturally ccuring enzymes which help ease the roots, and allow for some general stress relief and ease of new growth. It is also an amazing home for beneficial microbes of all kinds. It is organic, and as stated above, very porous, providing the needed aeration fro aerobic micrboes to colonize and thrive. Anyone has grown in Coco, used microbes, and looked at their root zone when they were finished can attest to this. Roots are firm and fluffy. Usually with Huge ropey swirls filling up the entire container (it’s hard to even see the coco by the end cause the entire container is filled with roots) with smaller tendrils coming off the larger coils, and if done correctly, fuzzy micro-hairs throughout!
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<Tips on How to Make Coco Fibre Work Best For you
Watering with coco is different than with soil. If you grow in soil, it can be much easier to “drown” the plant with too much water. Coco on the other hand is so light that there will always be more oxygen left and the plant will have a much harder time being oxygen straved. You can let the pot become dryer the first week only to stimulate root development. We suggest
watering your medium until fully saturated (with at least 10% ”run-off”) and then letting your plants go from wet to “barely
moist”. Coco can be used differently than this - allowing for multiple waterings a day. A grower must only let Coco go from Wet and Fully Saturated to “Moist” (usually a few hours when the lights are on) before watering again. We have had consistenly great results off of the former method - Going from Wet - to “Barely moist”.
Although Coco, has a very good water - to - air ratio (even trumps Rockwool which also claims to have a 70% water - 30% air holding capacity); however coco offers the unique ability of being cut with a further aerating substance like Perlite. Adding perlite can increase your overall oxygen levels within the root zone immensely. We suggest one 1 cu. ft. bag of Perlite to one bag of 50 Liter Canna Coco. This will give you roughly a 60% Coco / 40% Perlite mix, which has ideal aeration levels as well as maintaining an adequate water - holding capacity.
Coir holds a considerable amount of water within. It also evenly distributes the water throughout the medium. This is great
for growers using drip systems becuase you only need one to two drippers to create full saturation throughout the entire container. However, since Coco holds onto water and nutrient within its structure it creates a pH Buffer within the medium
itself. Coco also has a natural tendency (because of its high levels of Potassium contained within) to hold onto to certain
salts. This tendency (which contributes to its mid to low CEC value) tends to make Coco’s buffer rather difficult to bust,
thus making it harder to change the pH of the medium. Do not fret though because the Buffer CAN be broken. It just takes flushing copious amount of pH corrected 300 ppm nutrient solution (50% of which should be Cal/Mag) with Final Phase (Flushing agent mixed in) through the medium before you even start to grow in it. In this way you can ensure that the pH of the solution going into the medium and the pH of the solution coming out of the solutiion match. (An example of this would be 6.0 pH going into the medium and 6.0 pH coming out as “run-off”. This is a VERY IMPORTANT concept to grasp when using Coco - based mediums. We have made an “info sheet” that deals with this entitled How to do a Proper Flush.
Another issue (touched on above) a grower should be aware of when using Coco - based mediums is that Coco naturally holds onto to some nutrients (such as Calcium, Magnesium, Manganese, and Sulfur), therefore we will want to FLUSH the medium on a regualr (weekly or bi-weekly) basis or water with very low ppms / EC values. When Flushing, we also suggest collecting and testing the “run-off” to make sure that the ppms have gone down to almost nothing, and that your pH coming out of the bottom of the containers matches the pH being fed to the plants.
Again, this is properly covered in the “info sheet” entitled How to do a Proper Flush. (Subsequently, If you Flush regularly
we have found that you can feed your plants as High ppms as any other medium we have used). We highly suggest using a medium that was designed to be used with Coco - fibre based mediums such as Canna Coco, House and Garden Coco, or Pureblend pro Coco / Soil formula.
Coco is most suited to a run-to-waste system. A "runoff" of 10-20% of the volume watered each watering is the most common
recommendation to avoid the possibility of salt buildup in the coco media. Drainage helps control ppms / EC and pH levels, and flushes unnecessary salts out of the media. Since not all plants use similar amounts of nutrient, and they also secrete salts, any surplus of nutrient makes the coco brackish and changes the pH. By means of drainage you flush the media every time you give nutrient, which prevents it from becoming brackish. This does NOT mean that you should Not FLUSH as indicated, but by regularly testing the run-off you can do less Flushes. Many seasoned Coco growers will only Flush once every 3 weeks.
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Working With COCO-FIBRe summary
When planting into Coco we suggest the following 3 protocol:
3 Potential Problems when using Coco to be aware of:
- Flush the Medium wih 6.0 pH water.
- pH the Medium to 6.0 pH.
- After the medium has the correct pH - Add 4-500ppms of Nutrient to “charge” the medium before planting
within it. Once it is pre-charged and pH corrected plant into the medium.
(As long as you are aware of these potential issues than you can easliy avoid them)
1. Coco holds salts and must be Flushed. The Run-off should be tested to see what ppms/Ec and pH levels are.
2. Can create a pH buffer (at the wrong pH level within the medium) which must be “broken” and re-set to the
proper pH level for optimal growth. 6.0 in Vegetative Stage / 5.6-5.8 in the Fruit / Flowering Stage.
3. Coco can still be over-watered (never mind what you have heard). Even if over-watered your plants will still sur
vive. They just will not be happy. So, make sure to let the medium dry out a bit before re-watering!
Procedures to Follow when Using Coco-based Mediums
1. FLUSH the medium on a routine basis. Every 1-2 weeks is what we suggest.
2. Check the “Run-Off” for proper pH level and (when Flushing) for a low ppm / EC value.
3. pH the Medium to 6.0 pH to start with in Vegetative Stage. Drop down to 5.6 - 5.8 in Fruit / Flowering Stage.
4. Do NOT over-water the medium. make sure that it at least goes from “Wet” to “Moist” if not all the way to “Barely Moist” before watering the medium again.In general, this should be about one time a day or even once
every other day in the vegetative phase and then one to two times daily in the Bloom phase depending on container size, and enviornmental (temp, humidity, and CO2 levels).
5. We highly suggest using a digestive enzyme solution to help break down dead or dying root mass (such as
Cannazyme or Sensizym).
6. We also highly suggest using Beneficial Microbes in Coco. (Some suggestions: Roots Excelurator, Piranha, and
Vermi - T. Alternatively you could use Great White and Roots Excelurator.
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combination of perlite and vermiculite is a popular hydroponic
medium. Perlite is hard and brittle, providing
excellent drainage and root aeration.
Vermiculite is soft and spongy,
providing good water and nutrient
retention. Perlite and vermiculite when mixed together
in a ratio of 3:1, are an ideal
medium for hand watering as together
they hold plenty of moisture but
still retains good drainage.
Vermiculite is shiny, gold color
flecks that can soak up to 3-4
times its volume in water. Its
sterile and attracts nutrients
such as calcium, magnesium, potassium,
and phosphorous. Vermiculite is
the mineralogical name given to
hydrated laminar magnesium-aluminum-ironsilicate,
which you probably don't need
to know. It resembles mica in
appearance and is another volcanic
silicate mineral. It's surface
mined in places like Australia,
China, Kenya, South Africa and
the U.S. Unlike perlite, vermiculite
is spongy. It's also super light
and tailor-made for water absorption.
Perlite looks like tiny, white, crystallized
popcorn kernels. Perlite is not a trade name but a generic
term for naturally occurring silicous
rock. When quickly heated to above
1600°F (871°C), the crude
rock pops in a manner similar
to popcorn as the water inside
vaporizes and creates countless
tiny bubbles which account for
the amazing light weight and other
exceptional physical properties
of expanded perlite. Perlite is physically stable and chemically
inert. The porous nature of the
cellular granules ensures a product
that is light to handle, it is
free draining and it is well aerated.Perlite
will combine well with almost
any base soil mix. It will help
aerate it and better drain. 50%
- 50% mix
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potting mixes are traditionally
made from peat moss and then supplemented
with perlite, vermiculite, micronutrients
and and macronutrients. Today
more options exist than just peat
moss, and potting mixes are made
from a variety of substances.
soilless potting mix we carry, Ready-Gro is a mixture or perlite
and coir fibe, among a variety
of other great organic additions.
Coir fiber is a by-product of
the coconut harvest and is a renewable
resource. It holds 10 times its
weight in water and does not shed
water like peat moss. It holds
and releases nutrients over extended
periods. It is also said to provide
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are a sleu of good soils out there.
We stock Roots
Forest, Sunshine Pro-Mix and Canna
Bio just to name a few. These
soils are made of the highest
quality Organic base ingredients.
They all contain Organic Peat
as their base and have other amendments
(such as Coco Coir Fibre, Perlite,
Pumice, Guanos, Fish and Crab
meal, Earthworm Castings, Organic
Compost, etc.) added for extra
nutrition or for better aeration
or drainage. See our “info sheet”
on Soil Growers for more information
about our various Soil formulas
WHAT SHOULD I USE FOR SEED STARTING OR CUTTINGS?
are looking for a medium which
will keep the right level of moisture
and which will promote strong
root growth. The most commonly
used for cuttings are Grodan
Rockwool cubes which transplant
easily into larger Grodan
Rockwool Blocks. Great for
propagation, they stack neatly
together in nursery trays and
hold young plants upright and
steady. Our favorite method for
starting seeds is Ready-Gro
Super Plugs, an all natural
soilless organic grow plug made
of composted tree bark and organic
materials. Transplant into any
kind of growing medium, including
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AND WHY TO DO A PROPER FLUSH
is an integral part of growing
healthy happy plants. Flushing
a system and plants will remove
any excess salts that have built
up over time. Flushing will also
help restore an even CEC (Cation
Exchange Capability) balance to
a medium. Most mediums hold on
to salts and release them back
into the root zone over time,
or attract more salts to the salts
that have already begun to form,
promoting an ever downward spiral
towards “nutrient lockout.” Put
another way, the more salts in
a medium to begin with, the greater
the potentiality of attracting
ever-more salts until eventually
the plants can no longer pull
any water (or nutrients for that
matter) up at all. Lock out can
easily be avoided by Flushing
from time to time. Some mediums
need flushing more than others.
A list of mediums and their unique
flushing needs is presented below.
DO I FLUSH?
is fairly easy to do. First drain
your Reservoir and then refill
with FRESH Reverse Osmosis (or
purified) water. Add a Flushing
Agent like Final Phase or Clearex and / or pH the solution (always
pH - never forget to pH - always
pH last - right before watering
your plants.) Run at least 3 times
your normal watering amount through
the plants. Example: if your plants
normally take up 3 gallons of
water in a watering make sure
to Flush 9 Gallons of water through
them. (If running a recirculating
system, make sure to run for at
least 2 waterings.) Then Drain
the Reservoir and Re-up the Nutrient
solution as normal. You can either
wait to feed until the next scheduled
time or feed them right away (watching
the water running off to ensure
that it comes out “dirty” on the
bottom; the nutrient run off should
be coloring the water.
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MEDIUMS AND THEIR FLUSHING REQUIREMENTS
Flush every other week. Holds
salts with a low CEC. Fairly easy
to adjust pH of medium.
Coco - (Coir Fibre) or Soiless
Mixes with Coco - Ideally Flush
every week (can Flush every other
week). Low to Medium - Low CEC.
Sometimes has a Buffer (think
in terms of armor or shielding)
that needs to be broken through
before pH will adjust. (Flushing
can be long and arduous at first,
until buffer is “broken” than
Hydroton - Flushing medium once a Month
is enough. Virtually no CEC. Super
easy to adjust pH of medium.
Soil - Varies on the soil. Usually,
the method of Feed, Feed, and
then Flush is applied for soil
growers. This breaks down to once
a week Flushing (because most
soils as the plants start growing
faster and faster need water every
other day). Soil has a Medium
to High CEC. Sometimes has buffer
which needs to be “broken before
pH can be adjusted.
THE RUN OFF CAN BE A VERY USEFUL
testing the runoff that is coming
out of your drain before it hits
the reservoir (after a Flush has
been running) one can tell what
the pH and TDS (ppms) of the medium
is resting at. Ideally, whatever
the water is going in should measure
the same as the water coming out.
An example would be as follows:
Fresh Water Flush solution “going
in” has a pH of 6.0 and a TDS
of 0- 50ppms (R.O. / Purified
Water.) The pH of the drain water
coming out should be 5.8-6.2 (0.2pH
slide in either direction). The
TDS of the drain water coming
out should be within 50-100ppms
(50ppms off from the Fresh Flush
water coming in).
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THE PH AND OR PPMS TO EQUAL THE
WATER COMING IN
the ppms of the water coming out
the drain are higher by more than
50ppms of the water coming in
from the reservoir (Ex. 50ppms
going in, 100ppms comin out) then
continue to Flush until the ppms
are down to their appropriate
level. This is the easy one. The
pH is a ittle trickier. If the
pH of the Flush solution going
in and pH coming out (of the run-off
being collected at the drain)
match (at 6.0 as per our example)
then we are sitting pretty. If
the pH does not match the pH of
the solution going out (through)
the drain than we need to play
with the solution going in until
the pH coming out matches. Back
to our example: The pH going in
is 6.0, lets say the pH coming
out is 7.0; then the medium must
be around 8.0. If for example
the pH is 6.0 going in, and the
pH coming out is 5.5, then the
medium is around 5.0.
is what is important to understand
here. . .So, in order to correct
the pH in the first example (pH
going in is 6.0 and pH coming
out is 7.0), one would need to
lower the pH of the solution going
into the system to say 5.0 or
even 4.5 and run a good amount
of water into the medium and test
the run off until the water coming
out is the pH we would want it
to be (in this example it would
match the original water going
in at 6.0).
Once the pH of the
water coming out (down the drain)
matches the water solution coming
in, one final test is neccessary.
Flush again with the water going
in (in our example 6.0 pH) and
make sure it lines up and is equal
to the pH of the water coming
out.) This last step is necessary
because the water coming out is
not necessarily where the actual medium is at. Once the pH of the
water coming in matches the pH
of the water coming out, you are
done and the medium is “set”.
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DRAIN TO WASTE?
to waste” provides more control
over your plants and helps to
prevent diseases A very common
concern is that the system will
waste too much nutrient due to
the excessive amount of “waste
runoff.” This is simply not the
case. A dialed in “Drain to Waste”
system will only waste 10-15%
of the fed nutrient solution as
“run-off.” an example of this
is as follows: A given garden
uses 5 Gallons of water to feed
all the plants within, the “waste
run-off” will only be 1/2 to 3/4
of one gallon of solution. If
using “Drain to Waste” with Coco,
Soil or Rockwool, the frequency
of watering is down to a minimum
(usually once a day or once every
other day.) “Ok”, you might say,
“but, what are the benefits?” Click Here to download our InfoSheet, “Why should I run “Drain to Waste?”
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3 PRINCIPAL REASONS TO RUN "DRAIN
TO WASTE" Hydroponic System
Less chance of Getting Root Rot Most common Root Rot issues spawn
from pathogens that produce spores
as a way of spreading their colonies
and infecting further plants.
The disease starts in one (usually
the weakest) plant in the garden,
and uses this plant as a factory
to produce more spores (in an
attempt to infect more plants
with Larger Stronger colonies.)
In a recirculating system, the
spores generated from this one
plant then drain out of the plant
and collect into the main reservoir
where they mass produce with the
water supply and then infect all
the plants in the garden on the
next and succesive waterings.
With “Drain to Waste” this cannot
happen because any water leaving
a given plant goes to a drain
and not back to the “Main Reservoir”
Therefore no spores can infect
Always feeding FRESH nutrient
rich solution to your plants In
a “Drain to Waste” reservoir the
nutrient rich solution feeds the
plants and the “run-off” gets
drained out the bottom of the
plants and runs to waste. This
ensures that plants get fed only
FRESH non-recirculated nutrient
every time. The difference between
“Drain to Waste” and “Recirculating”
reservoirs is as follows: In a
recirculating reservoir the nutrient
solution starts out complete as
per the original recipe contained
in the bottles. As the waterings
/ feedings continue and the plants
feed off of the nutrient solution
for the course of the week the
solution loses key minerals to
the plants unique feeding needs.
This also causes precipitates
to form as certain minerals (now
in new molecular arrangements)
“lock up” and fall out of solution.
Now the orignal recipe is no longer
intact. With “Drain to Waste” this is not the case. The Recipe
stays intact and the plants always
get the complete line of food
requirements every time. This
provides for Healthier, Stronger,
and Faster growth.
3. The ability to do Flushes and
Drenches Flushes are very important
in a coco-based or rockwool-based
medium. Flushes allow for the
reseting of the medium as well
as a drawing out of un-wanted
nutrients from within the plants
themselves. Flushes can be very
instrumental for good healthy
plant growth. Under normal condtions
(recirculating system) a Flush
will pull the salts out of the
medium as well as the plant, draw
them into the reservoir, and then
keep pumping them back into the
plants again and again, until
the reservoir is drained and the
cycle is repeated a few times.
With “Drain to Waste” this is
not neccessary. We can run a Flush
“to waste.” All salts and excess
minerals are drained from the
plants and truely Flushed away.
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ABILITY TO RUN DRENCHES!
are also another nice feature
of “Drain to Waste” systems. For
example, products like Gnatrol were made to be used in a soil
based system and not designed
for a recirculating hydroponics
system. With a Drench, one can
load the Reservoir up with any
given product and run it once
or twice through the system and
then either Flush or change out
the reservoir and re-up the regular
nutrient regimen and feed as normal.
There are many products that are
made for a Drench application.
REASONS WHY DRAIN TO WASTE IS
A BETTER OVERALL SYSTEM CHOICE
Click Here to download our InfoSheet, “Why should I run “Drain to Waste?”
pH doesn’t fluctuate as much
2. System itself stays cleaner
3. Most Large Agricultural Business
use Drain to Waste.
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